Mumbai’s Ganpati Pandals: A Journey Through History in the Heart of Girgaon
Mumbai is often described as a city that never sleeps, but during Ganesh Chaturthi, it transforms into a city that never stops celebrating. Amidst the flurry of music, colors, processions, and chants of "Ganpati Bappa Morya," the essence of this festival is more than just its grand spectacle—it’s deeply embedded in history, culture, and community spirit. And no area of Mumbai embodies this spirit more than Girgaon, a neighborhood whose streets hold stories of India’s fight for independence and the very origins of Ganesh Chaturthi as a public celebration.
Recently, I had the privilege of participating in a heritage walk through some of Girgaon’s most famous and historically significant Ganpati pandals. This walk, organized by Khaki Tours, provided an in-depth look at how the Ganpati festival evolved from a personal family celebration into a public event that galvanized an entire nation. The experience was far more than just a religious tour—it was a journey through the layers of history that have shaped Mumbai and its people.
The Historical Significance of Girgaon
Girgaon is not just another locality in Mumbai; it’s a living, breathing museum of the city’s past. Its narrow lanes and densely packed chawls (old communal living spaces) are remnants of a time when Mumbai was still Bombay, and this neighborhood was at the heart of India’s struggle for independence. More than 130 years ago, as the flames of freedom were igniting across the country, leaders like Bal Gangadhar Tilak saw an opportunity to unite people under the banner of religion and culture. Girgaon became one of the focal points of this movement, and the Ganpati pandals of this area served as covert meeting places for freedom fighters to discuss strategies and rally support for independence.
During the British Raj, public gatherings were restricted. The Ganesh Chaturthi festival, traditionally a household affair, was transformed by Tilak into a public event that provided an opportunity for Indians to gather without raising the suspicions of the British authorities. This brilliant move allowed people to not only celebrate their faith but also plot their fight for freedom under the guise of religious devotion. The pandals in Girgaon became places where revolutionary ideas were shared, and strategies for independence were laid out. This deep historical connection makes the Ganpati celebrations in Girgaon unlike any other in the city.
The Walk with Khaki Tours
The walk I participated in was organized by Khaki Tours; a group known for offering immersive heritage walks across Mumbai. Khaki Tours is driven by individuals who are passionate about the city’s history, many of whom work in professional fields like IT, medicine, and corporate sectors. They dedicate their time to these walks not for financial gain but out of a genuine love for Mumbai and its stories. Khaki Tours began in 2016, and since then, they have been steadily growing, uncovering lesser-known stories of Mumbai’s history for curious minds.
The host for our walk was Mr. Ram Kumar Warrier, a friend and a charismatic storyteller. He introduced us to Girgaon’s hidden stories with a depth of knowledge that was both engaging and insightful. I was fortunate enough to join this particular walk on the final day of Ganesh Chaturthi—had I missed it, I would have had to wait another year to experience this historical journey.j
The Beginning of the Journey
After a hectic day at work, I rushed to catch a train from Andheri to Charni Road, where I met Ram. From there, we made our way to Gaiwadi, the starting point of the walk, deep in the heart of Girgaon. Our group was small but enthusiastic, and as the clock struck 6:00 PM, we set off on a journey that would take us through time, retracing the steps of some of Mumbai’s oldest Ganpati celebrations.
As we gathered, Ram handed out Khaki stickers that we wore on our shoulders, a small but meaningful gesture that signaled the start of our adventure. Ram kicked off the walk by asking, "When you think of Ganpati, what comes to mind?" Like many Mumbaikars, my immediate response was "Lalbaugcha Raja," the city’s most famous Ganpati. However, Ram quickly shifted our focus away from Lalbaug to Girgaon, where the true origins of public Ganpati celebrations in Mumbai can be found.
The First Stop: Parshuram Wadi
Our first stop was Parshuram Wadi, a chawl that has celebrated Ganpati for generations. For those unfamiliar with Mumbai’s chawls, they are dense housing complexes where multiple families live in close quarters, sharing common spaces and fostering a strong sense of community. The residents of Parshuram Wadi, though modest in means, welcome Ganpati into their homes with boundless devotion. The spirit of togetherness here is palpable—the families work together to prepare for the festival, from cooking meals for the deity to decorating their small pandal.
What struck me most about Parshuram Wadi was the simplicity and authenticity of their celebration. In an age where many pandals have embraced commercialism, the families in this chawl have remained true to the original spirit of Ganesh Chaturthi. For them, this is not about grand displays or elaborate decorations; it’s about community, tradition, and devotion. This is the very essence of the festival, something that many of us in the modern world have lost sight of.
Mohun Building: Tradition Lives On
From Parshuram Wadi, we moved to Mohun Building, another historic chawl just a few meters away. The residents here have been bringing Ganpati into their homes for decades, and much like Parshuram Wadi, they have kept the traditions alive without succumbing to the flashier trends that dominate the festival today. The pandal in Mohun Building is a perfect example of how some things remain unchanged—while other pandals in Mumbai have become synonymous with Bollywood-style celebrations, Mohun Building’s Ganpati remains rooted in simplicity and devotion.
Here, we were offered the festival's most iconic sweet, the modak. Modaks, believed to be Ganpati’s favorite treat, come in both steamed and fried varieties, and their name is derived from the words "mod," meaning happiness, and "ak," meaning small quantity. This small, sweet symbol of joy embodies the spirit of Ganesh Chaturthi—a reminder that even the simplest things can bring the greatest happiness.
Girgaoncha Raja: The Largest Idol in Girgaon
After visiting the humble chawls, we moved on to the larger and more elaborate pandals, the most impressive of which was Girgaoncha Raja. As we approached the pandal, we were immediately struck by the size and beauty of the idol. Standing tall and resplendent, this Ganpati is the largest in Girgaon, and yet, even in its grandeur, it remains deeply connected to the traditions of the area.
One unique aspect of this idol is the small Krishna figurine perched on Ganpati’s trunk, an unusual but beautiful addition that has become a tradition over the years. The creation of this massive idol is no small feat. Due to its size and weight, the idol is constructed directly on a trolley, which is used to transport it during the immersion procession. Though the immersion site is only a kilometer away, the procession takes over 24 hours to complete. The reason? At every building along the route, the procession stops so that residents can offer prayers and perform aarti. This tradition is a poignant reminder of the deep connection between Ganpati and the local communities.
The Origins of Ganesh Chaturthi as a Public Festival
One of the most fascinating stories we learned during the walk was the story of Bhau Rangari, a prominent figure in Pune who was the first to celebrate Ganesh Chaturthi publicly. His celebration inspired Bal Gangadhar Tilak to transform the festival into a public event, which would go on to become a powerful tool for uniting Indians against British rule. Tilak’s vision turned Ganesh Chaturthi into a community festival, fostering a sense of national pride and cultural unity that still resonates today.
Another interesting fact we discovered was the origin of Ganpati Visarjan. The immersion of Ganpati idols began as a response to the Muharram Taziya processions, where Muslim communities would immerse religious symbols in the sea. This intermingling of traditions speaks to the syncretic nature of Mumbai’s culture, where different religious communities have long lived side by side, influencing each other’s practices.
Shantaram Chawl: Home to Mumbai’s Oldest Ganpati
Our final stop was at Shantaram Chawl, where we visited the oldest Ganpati pandal in Mumbai, a small idol housed in the Bedekar family’s garage. This Ganpati is 132 years old, and the family has been celebrating the festival in the same way since its inception. What’s remarkable about this pandal is its adherence to tradition. The idol remains small—just one and a half feet tall—and the rituals, from the daily aartis to the eventual immersion, have remained unchanged for over a century.
The pandal also has a constitution that outlines how the festival should be celebrated, ensuring that the original customs are followed to the letter. Even the immersion here is unique—unlike the grand processions accompanied by dhols and loud music, this Ganpati is taken to the seashore in a palki (palanquin), maintaining the quiet dignity of the original celebration.
Conclusion: A Walk-Through Time
As the walk came to an end, we visited a few more pandals, received blessings from the deities, and reflected on the journey we had just undertaken. The Ganpati festival in Girgaon is more than a religious event—it’s a testament to the resilience of tradition in the face of modernization. It’s a celebration of community, culture, and history, all woven together in the fabric of Mumbai’s identity.
I am incredibly grateful to Khaki Tours and Ram Kumar Warrier for guiding me through this enlightening experience. The stories I heard and the sights I saw have deepened my understanding of Mumbai’s rich history and the profound significance of the Ganpati festival in Girgaon. For anyone looking to explore the lesser-known side of Mumbai, I highly recommend embarking on a Khaki heritage walk. It’s a journey into the city’s soul—a place where tradition and history still hold sway amidst the rush of modern life.
